Keith Larrett | Syzygy Woodworks

May 3, 2013April 28, 2013

Remote Switch for Powermatic 3520B

One of the first modifications I made to my Powermatic 3520B was a remote switch. I had one on my previous lathe and had grown comfortable with it. I like to keep the switch on the lathe bed by the tail stock, so I don’t have to reach through the “line of fire” if I need to switch the lathe off in a hurry.

Most of the instructions you find on the internet for making a remote switch involve relocating the on/off switch only. I wanted to relocate both the on/off switch and the variable speed dial. Being somewhat “electronically challenged” I also needed a simple method that didn’t involve a lot of rewiring. After much searching I finally found the following set of instructions on the AAW Forum.

http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?p=51600#post51600

It was pretty simple to do. Once I had sourced the various parts it took me about an hour to assemble everything. In essence all you are doing is putting a longer wire between the control panel that holds the on/off switch and speed dial ant the wires in the head stock. I have been using it for over a year now and have not experienced any problems.

I removed the control panel from the head stock and took a couple pictures with my cell phone so that I would have a reference of which wire went where.

Then I went shopping in the electric department at Home Depot.

Conduit box.

Male and female disconnects.

Spade terminals and snap connectors.

Next stop was NAPA auto parts.

10 feet of trailer wire. They did not have 5 conductor wire, so I got some 6 conductor and didn’t use one of the wires.

Total cost was around $35. $15 at Home Depot and the trailer wire cost $2 a foot.

Push the wire through the hole at the back of the head stock. Remove the grommet from the hole first. It’s a very tight fit. I couldn’t get the grommet back in the hole fully, you might have better luck.

Connect all the wires at the headstock side.

Put the connectors on the remote side of the cable. I made the red plug from some scrap rubber. Cut it to fit the conduit box and drilled a ½” hole in it to accept the cable.

I cut the back outlet thingy off the conduit box at the band saw. Then I cut a piece of scrap wood the size of the conduit box. Epoxied six ½” x 1/8” rare earth magnets into the wood and then screwed the wood to the backside of the conduit box. You need some strong magnets. The on/off switch on the control panel takes quite a bit of force to pull out and if the magnets are not strong enough you will pull the remote box off the lathe trying to turn the lathe on.

The back of the box.

I gave the conduit box and cover a coat of appliance paint and let it dry overnight. Before I painted the cover plate I drilled the holes with a ¼” bit and kinda elongated them by pulling them against the bit. The spacing on them is a little close to fit over the holes on the headstock and so some tweaking was needed.

The headstock with the conduit cover in place of the control panel.

The remote switch. It sticks in the horizontal position better than in the vertical position due to the curved sides of the lathe ways.

April 26, 2013April 21, 2013

Custom Live Center Cones

After my last post on turning a sphere using the Soren Berger Sphere Calipers, I received some queries on making the live center cup that holds the sphere during the final stage of turning the sphere. Custom live center cones are easy to make and open up many possibilities for supporting the work piece on the tail stock side. I have the Jet live center that came with my Powermatic and it has 3/4 – 10 threads on it. This is the same size as the threads on the popular Oneway live center.

To make custom live center cones you will need a 3/4 – 10 tap, a 5/8 drill bit and a 3/4 – 10 bolt around 2 1/2″ long.

Mount a block of wood in a chuck, turn it round and true up the face. It is best if the wood is mounted in a face grain orientation, as if you were turning a bowl. The threads that are tapped into the wood will be stronger with the grain orientated like this. Once trued up, drill a hole around 1 1/2″ deep with the 5/8″ drill bit.

To tap the block of wood on the lathe I use the following procedure. First lock the spindle on the lathe. Then position the tap at the mouth of the drilled hole and support the other side of it using a 60 degree live center. Most taps have a hole or dimple on this end allowing you to do this. Then comes the part that requires a bit of co-ordination 🙂 Using a wrench turn the tap and as it threads into the lathe turn the wheel on the tail stock to help drive and support the tap. It is actually a lot easier than it sounds.

You will need to tap the blank deep enough that when threaded onto the live center it bottoms out and the blank makes contact with the live center. This will help to support the live center cone, in much the same way that a blank held chuck jaws is supported by the shoulders of the jaws as well as gripped by the jaws. Check that this is the case before proceeding.

With the head removed from the 3/4 – 10 bolt, mount it in the chuck with a set of pin jaws. Now would also be a great time to release the spindle lock on the lathe!

Screw the blank onto the 3/4 -10 bolt. You did remember to release the spindle lock on the lathe, didn’t you?

The blank can now be turned to whatever shape you need. This custom live center cone will be used to support a goblet while the stem of the goblet is being turned.

The image below shows the finished custom live center cone mounted and ready for use.

A variety of custom live center cones for a variety of purposes. From left to right:

A cone to fit in the mouth of a hollow form and support it.
A cup to support a sphere.
A convex shape to support a goblet.
A cylinder to support a pepper mill.

April 19, 2013April 19, 2013

Using the Soren Berger Sphere Calipers

The gifted among us can turn a sphere by eye. For the rest of us some system is necessary to turn a spherical object. I’ve written previously about a method Al Hockenbery demonstrated on how to turn a sphere. Since then I have acquired a set of Soren Berger Sphere Calipers. They use the same principle as the previous method, but take out the math. The calipers consist of a large set of jaws, which when set to the diameter of the sphere, will automatically set two smaller “birds mouth” jaws to the correct spacing to enable you to turn the cylinder, into a square first, then an octagon and finally a sixteen sided shape, from where it is relatively easy to smooth out the sphere. The image below shows the Soren Berger Sphere Calipers. You can see the large jaws towards the bottom of the picture and the two “birds mouth” jaws toward the top of the picture. The smaller set of “birds mouth” jaws are nearly obscured by my thumb.

The blank that I am turning is a piece of hickory, just over 4″ long and 3″ diameter. Once the blank has been turned to a cylinder measure the diameter using the large set of jaws. Then transfer that dimension to the blank and turn the blank to that dimension, essentially creating a “square” cylinder whose length is equal to the diameter.

Then, using the large “birds mouth” jaws, make four marks on the blank equal distances from the corners of the blank.

Turn away the wood between these marks in a straight line. There are two “shoulders” which need to be turned away. We are now left with an octagonal shape, which contains the sphere.

Using the small “birds mouth” jaws, once again make a mark either side of each “corner” of the blank. This time we will make a total of eight marks. Sorry, but I forgot to take pictures of the small “birds mouth” jaws in action, but you can clearly see the eight lines that are established using them

Things can start to look a bit confusing at this point, so it can be beneficial to color in the spaces between each set of marks in order to clarify which areas need to be turned away. This time there are four “shoulders” to be turned away. As before, make sure the areas are turned away in a straight line. Any concave lines will bite into the sphere. Once the areas are turned away we are left with a sixteen sided polygon or hexadecagon. Regardless of what you call it, you can see that it started to look an awful lot like a sphere.

The next step is to free the sphere from the hexadecagon. I find light cuts and a slow measured approach are the key at this point.

The tenons are then turned down and then cut off with a handsaw with the lathe turned off. It always surprises me as to how small you can turn the tenons if you take care! When the handsaw cut is made, the blade is angled away from the sphere so that a small nub is left. If the saw cut is made straight down then there will be a small indent in the side of the sphere.

The sphere is then mounted between cup cnenters and the nubs are turned off. For a detailed explanation on how to make the cup centers you can refer back to my previous post on turning a sphere.

Once the nubs are turned away, the sphere is sanded and a coat of wax applied …

… and then into the bowl it goes with the rest of them!

April 12, 2013April 14, 2013

Wooden chuck jaws

I needed to make another set of wooden chuck jaws for a project I am working on. Wooden chuck jaws can be quite useful. They are quick to make, cheap and can be custom made to suit a particular project. They have the added advantage that you can hold a piece without the risk of damage from the jaws. The obvious disadvantage is they are not as strong as metal jaws, so care and thought needs to be used in their application.

With these jaws I needed to hold a sphere around 3″ in diameter, so I needed the useful depth of the jaws to be at least 1 1/2″. I say useful depth, because about 1/2″ of the jaws will be taken up by the screws attaching them to the chuck. With that in mind, the first step was to joint and glue a couple 2×4 lengths together. Once the glue had cured, I cut 4 3 1/2″ sections as shown in the image below. I planned on mounting these jaws to my Vicmarc VM120 chuck and so I also needed some M6 x 1.0 pitch screws, 20mm long, that’s about 3/4″.

Using an appropriately sized transfer punch and the regular metal jaws I marked the locations of the eight holes on the four blanks. I also numbered the blanks.

I then moved to my drill press. I drilled a 1/4″ hole at the marks all the way through the blanks. I did this from the underside of the jaws, the side that would be against the chuck, in order to reduce any alignment issues. I then flipped the blank over and drilled a 15/32″ hole almost all the way through the blanks. I set the stop on the drill press so that the drill would stop about 1/2″ from the underside of the blank. That way when the screws were placed in the hole just over an 1/8″ would protrude out the bottom of the blank.

I then moved to the bandsaw and cut the blanks to form a circle.

The blanks were then screwed to the chuck …

… the chuck mounted to the lathe, and the wooden jaws were turned round and the face trued up. Use caution, a slow speed and light cuts, until you are assured the blanks are secure on the chuck. After you have turned the jaws round, and before you true up the face, remember to transfer the jaw numbers to the outside of the jaws.

A cylindrical hole was then hollowed in the wooden jaws. Again, use caution, especially at the bottom of this hole, to make sure you don’t hit the screw heads with your gouge.

A test sphere for the project I am working on was then held securely in the jaws and hollowed.

April 2, 2013April 2, 2013

Silver solder a bandsaw blade

To my mind, one of the biggest factors in getting a good cut on a bandsaw is a sharp blade. Things like blade tension, blade guide set up etc are all important, but if the blade is not sharp you will have tracking problems, the blade will wander within the cut and you will have to force the wood through the cut. However, at $20 and up for a blade it is always tempting to use the blade long past when it should have been sharpened or replaced.

For years I have thought about the convenience and cost savings of making my own blades up. I always hesitated, worried that it would be difficult or involve expensive welding equipment. Well a couple of months ago, inspired by a Popular Woodworking article by John Wilson, I took the plunge and ordered a Bandsaw Blade Splicing Kit from Lee Valley and 100 foot coil of Lenox Flexback bandsaw blade, and started making my own blades up. I have been surprised at how quick and easy it is. The shop made blades are far cheaper as well, about $8 per blade. My only regret is that I didn’t start doing this years ago.

The image below shows everything that I use to make up the blades.

100 foot coil of bandsaw blade stock.
Bandsaw blade splicing kit including the jib, flux and ribbon silver solder. (Note: this is silver solder, not soft solder that is used for plumbing)
Propane torch.
Gloves.
Toothpick to apply the flux 🙂

First, measure and mark the blade. The blades for my bandsaw need to be 105″. Add about an 1/8″ of an inch to allow for the scarf overlap.

Cut the blade at that mark.

Hold the two ends back to back and touch them to the grinder to square them off. If you are off by a degree or so the fact that the ends were back to back will cancel that out. (This is a similar principle to joint two pieces of lumber at the same time.) You can also use a belt sander to square the ends of the blade and grind the bevel for the scarf joint.

Set the blade in the jig to double check the joints are square when the blade is aligned in a straight line.

Change the grinder platform angle to approximately 25 degrees and grind a bevel on each end. The bevel needs to be about an 1/8″ long. Note, you need to grind the bevel on opposite faces of the blade.

The image and diagram show the beveled edges. The joint is open here to try show the bevel. The joint needs to be closed tight when the flux and solder are applied and the joint is soldered together.

Place some of the flux on each bevel. Cut a piece of the ribbon silver solder the same length as the blade is wide and place it in the joint.

Using the propane torch, heat the blade until the silver solder melts and flows. The blade turns red hot at this point.

Allow the joint to cool. The metal has become hardened and brittle by the heat of the soldering, so it needs to be annealed. Back the torch away from the blade and apply heat for a few seconds, allow the blade to cool for about ten seconds, then back the torch away another inch and apply a couple more seconds heat, repeat this four or five times, drawing the torch back each time.

If the blade breaks during use, then have a look at where it broke. If it breaks at the joint, then insufficient flux or heat was applied during the soldering process. If it breaks within a coupe inches of the joint, then the blade was not annealed properly. If it breaks somewhere else, then the problem was not with the soldering of the joint.

Once the blade has cooled the joint needs to be filed smooth. Both sides of the blade and the back edge of the blade need to be filed and the surplus flux and metal removed.

The finished joint. One final note, check the orientation of the blade before you put it on the bandsaw. You may need to twist the blade inside out to get it orientated correctly. It needs to be orientated with the teeth facing toward you and pointing down.

March 24, 2013March 24, 2013

Panther Chainsaw Mill

I have been wanting to get some form of portable mill for a long time now. Portable mills can be divided into two categories, bandsaw mills and chainsaw mills. After much research, I finally settled on a chainsaw mill. My reasons for this were as follows:

Cost. An entry-level chainsaw mill costs a couple hundred dollars (not including the chainsaw), while an entry-level bandsaw mill costs a couple thousand.
Portability. The chainsaw mill is obviously considerably smaller than a bandsaw mill and so has the edge on portability.
Width of cut. Achieving a wider cut with a chainsaw mill is simply a matter of putting on a longer bar, assuming you have the power head to run it. A wider cut with a bandsaw mill starts to mean a much bigger and more expensive mill.
Waste. While the waste due to the kerf of a chainsaw is considerably more than that of a bandsaw, this was not really a major factor for me. I don’t plan on milling a huge amount of wood and I am milling the wood for my personal use, not for resale. Also the vast majority of the wood I will be milling will be reclaimed wood and won’t cost me anything so a little bit wasted due to the thicker kerf is not a big deal.
Ease of use. The bandsaw mill requires a whole lot less effort to use. Again, due to the limited amount of milling I will be doing, breaking a sweat with the chainsaw mill occasionally is not going to be a big deal.

Having decided on a chainsaw mill I needed to decide on which model/brand. Taking into account many of the reasons above I decided to get an Alaskan Chainsaw style mill. I was all set to purchase one of the original Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mills when I came across the Panther Chainsaw Mill. Looking through the website and searching for reviews of the mill I liked what I saw and placed my order for the Panther Mill II, along with a 6′ slabbing rail and an auxiliary oiler.

I knew that the mill was made by a small outfit, a guy based here in Florida on the other side of the state. I also read that delivery was not always quickest as the mills were made to order. I was in no hurry so that didn’t bother me. My mill actually took just over a month to arrive. I called about the order two weeks after it was placed and received an apology that he had some health issues. Another call two weeks later and I was told the mill was in production and would be shipped shortly. A couple of days later it arrived. It would have been nice to have received an email about the delay but at the end of the day it wasn’t that big of an issue.

The following are my first impressions of the mill. Actually they are also my first impressions of milling in general. This is a totally new area to me. I have done a lot of research into it, but today was the first time I’ve seen any sort of mill in real life. So bear that in mind while reading, I’m just getting started with this!

Opening the box, I saw the contents had been well packaged and it was obvious from the outset that the mill had been built well and by someone who cared about what he was doing. Just lying in the box it looked rock solid. No buyers remorse at all, I was very pleased with what I saw.

As well as the obligatory warning page, a couple of pages of assembly and use instructions had been included. They were well written and it seemed like I wouldn’t have much problem putting the mill together. It would have been nice to have had a couple more detail shots, but between the pictures and written instructions it was easy enough to figure out.

The first step was to attach the skid bar to the main body and bar clamp/height adjuster. The later came in two halves and each had already been assembled.

Next I needed to attach the push bar to the main body.

Finally I could loosen the bar clamps and slide the chainsaw into place.

Here are a couple of detail shots of the bar clamps at the tip of the bar and near the power head.

Two big bolts, one on each side of the main body, allow for the height adjustment. I initially set the assembly for an 8/4 cut.

A couple of technical specifications. I am a running a Stihl MS066 power head with a 32″ bar. I got it used on eBay from a guy in Canada. The mill is the Panther Mill II 42″, so I have the option of putting a longer bar on the chainsaw at some point in the future. The chain is a regular chain, not a ripping chain. I may be mistaken, but I did read that all a ripping chain does is provide a smoother cut. I’m not sure if it puts less stress on the chainsaw. As a lot of the wood I’ll be milling will end up on the lathe, I’m not really concerned about getting as smooth a cut as possible.

Now that it was fully assembled and all the bolts double checked it was time to head outside and put it to the test. I had been saving a log of maple for this occasion, it had probably been in my shop for about four to six months. The first step was to screw the slabbing rail to the log. This was going to provide a level and straight platform to register the first cut from.

Here are some action shots of the first cut in progress. I got a bit caught up in the moment and totally forgot to put my hearing protection on! Just left the headphones lying off to the side, my bad. Unfortunately I also miscalculated by about a quarter-inch the depth of the screws fixing the slabbing rail to the log. This after specifically reading in the instructions to watch out for this. Lesson learned. The chain was dulled by the brief contact with the screws as I realized my mistake and definitely made the cut a lot more work than it needed to be.

In spite of my rookie mistakes, the cut came out really well, and removing the slabbing rail revealed a smooth surface in the spalted maple. Here in Florida the challenge is often how to get the wood not to spalt!

Having removed the slabbing rail, the smooth freshly cut surface now provides a platform to register the next cut from. All subsequent cuts are now registered from the previous cut. I did realize to that I needed to adjust the height before the second cut as the depth had increased due to the slabbing rail not being used. Here are some action shots of the second cut.

The instructions had warned of a big grin after cutting your first slab. They were right!

All in all I’m really pleased with my purchase. I plan on using it to mill wood but for my woodturning, platters, bowl blanks, hollow form blanks and wall hangings, as well as my woodworking goal of making natural edge slab tables. I think it will work very well for what I intend to use it for.

March 17, 2013

End Grain Vessel with Pewter Rim

The blank selected should be approximately 4” x 4” x 6”. The grain should be orientated such that it runs parallel to the lathe. It is important that the blank is dry.

Mount the blank between centers. Turn it round, square off the end by the tailstock and turn a tenon to match your chuck. (In the first image, I have a steb center mounted in my chuck jaws)

Turn the blank around and mount in the chuck jaws. True it up and square off the end.

Cut groves in the end face of the blank to form a mold into which the pewter will be cast.

The image above shows a section through the blank, illustrating the dovetail which holds the pewter to the blank.

The image above shows the pewter being poured from the electric melting pot.

True up the face of the blank.

Turn the first inch of the exterior of the vessel. Clean up the pewter using a skew as a negative rake scraper. Cut a small chamfer on the top lip of the pewter rim using the skew in the same manner.

Using the long point of a skew, cut a small bevel to clean up the junction between the wood and the pewter. Then embellish the rim using a texturing tool.

The image above shows the exterior of the pewter rim.

Using a detail gouge, hollow out the first inch of the vessel.

Again using the skew as a negative rake scraper, clean up the top of the rim and cut a small chamfer on the inside lip of the rim.

The pewter rim is now complete.

Turn most of the exterior of the vessel, leaving some bulk at the base to add stability when hollowing.

Drill a hole to the final depth and then hollow out the interior. In the image on the right I am using a Termite tool to hollow with, but you could also do the hollowing with a detail gouge.

A negative rake scraper can be used to smooth out the interior of the vessel.

The exterior of the vessel is now turned to completion and sanded. It is a good idea to protect the pewter rim with some blue painters tape while sanding. The vessel is then parted off with an undercut.

A tenon is then formed on the remainder of the blank to form a jam chuck in order to finish off the underside of the vessel.

The completed end grain vessel with pewter rim.

September 30, 2010

Cutting a Partial Sphere Safely

Putting the final touches on an install that I did recently, I had to cut some bun feet to size. The tile floor had been installed after the vanity cabinets, and the bun feet were now to tall to fit under the cabinet, about 3/8″ of an inch needed to be cut from the top of the feet.

The bun feet were not a complete sphere as they had a flat section. While I was able to put this flat section on the bed of my miter saw, the rounded section of the sphere was up against the fence. The potential for the piece to rotate as I cut it was high. As well as ruining an expensive fixture it could have caused a dangerous kickback. As expensive as the bun feet were, my fingers are worth more, so I needed to figure out a way to hold the bun feet so that the cut could be performed on my miter saw accurately and safely.

A couple of pieces of scrap wood screwed together made a jig which allowed just that. The bun foot is secured to the jig by a 1 1/2″ screw through the jig and into the base of the foot as well as an additional screw through the base of the jig and into the flat section of the bun foot These areas would be against the tile floor and the toe kick so the holes formed by the screw would be hidden after installation. The screws, as with the screws used to assemble the jig, would also be out of the way of the cut so the blade wouldn’t be damaged.

As you can see in the image below the bun foot is now held securely and square to the base and fence of the miter saw. There is no danger of the bun foot moving or rotating in any direction or axis. The jig also allows me plenty of room to hold it with my fingers far from the spinning blade.

The cut complete.

The bun foot installed.

Typically a miter saw, table saw and band saw are used to cut objects that sit flat on the bed and have a square edge that will ride against the fence. However, with the use of simple but effective jigs it is possible to cut round and irregular shaped objects. When designing the jig keep these points in mind:

The jig must be large enough to allow you to hold/guide it and keep your hands/fingers away from the blade.
The jig must hold the workpiece securely so there is no possibility of rotation or movement while performing the cut.
Any fasteners used to assemble the jig or hold the workpiece, screws, nails, clamps etc, need to be positioned so that the blade is not cutting into them.

Above all, if there is any doubt in your mind at all about the safety of the cut, then don’t make it. There is no cut that is worth bleeding over!

September 29, 2010

Lock-Rabbet Drawer Joint

A lock-rabbet joint, while not as strong as a dovetail joint, is still a strong, attractive and relatively easy joint to make. It is ideally suited for drawers. It can be made on either a table saw or router table.

As with much power tool woodworking, the time is in the set up. Once the set up is done, repeating the cut for any number of drawers is a quick process.

The first step is to mill your lumber. The picture below shows the pieces for one drawer box. The sides are 1/2″ thick maple, the front and back are 3/4″ maple. The length of the drawer front and back pieces is the same as the finished dimension of the drawer. The lengths of the drawer side pieces is half an inch less than the finished dimension of the drawer. As always, I have also prepared a couple of 1/2″ and 3/4″ scrap pieces to use for test cuts during the set up. It’s also a good idea to mark the outside face of each piece with chalk to avoid confusion.

With a 1/4″ dado blade in the table saw, cut a 1/4″ x 1/4″ groove down the side of each piece 1/4″ from the edge of the piece. This is the groove that will accept the drawer bottom, which is 1/4″ thick sheet material. Cutting the groove now gives you another visual aid as to which side is the inside of the drawer as well as which edge is the top and bottom.

Using one of the drawer sides as a gauge block, raise the 1/4″ dado blade to 1/2″ high. This is a rough adjustment and the blade height will be fine tuned in the next step.

The next step can be made by using a tall auxiliary table saw fence or with a tenoning jig as shown in the picture below. Using a scrap piece of wood and the blade at 1/2″ height, make a cut.

To confirm the blade is at the correct height, butt one of the drawer sides into the groove just cut. The drawer side should fit flush with the edge of the scrap piece, as in the picture below. If the drawer side is proud of the edge of the scrap piece, then the cut needs to be deeper and the blade should be raised. If the edge of the scrap piece is proud of the drawer side, then the cut is to deep and the blade should be lowered.

Now that the height of the blade is set, the distance from the tenoning jig to the blade needs to be set to 1/4″. I like to use a brass set up gauge for this.

With the outside face towards the tenoning jig, cut a 1/2″ x 1/4″ groove in the end of each side of the front and back pieces of the drawer.

Using either an auxillary fence on the table saw, or a piece of wood held with a fence clamp as shown, slide the table saw fence so that the piece of wood just touches the blade.

Lower the blade to 3/8″ of an inch.

With the outside face of the piece up, crosscut each end of the front and back pieces of the drawer.

The front and back pieces of the drawer are now complete.

Still using either a scrap piece of wood held by a fence clamp, set the height of the blade to 1/4″ and the distance of the blade from the scrap piece of wood to 1/4″. Then make a crosscut in one of the 1/2″ thick pieces of wood you prepared.

The astute among you will notice that I made a large block of wood to use as my “mini auxillary fence”. The one in the previous image did not reach all the way down to the table saw bed and made some set ups difficult.

The really astute among you will also notice that the position of the “mini auxiliary fence” in the shot below is far from ideal. Somewhere in the midst of making the new auxiliary fence, performing the cross-cut and then staging everything for the photo I had the auxiliary fence in the wrong position. My bad. Once the distance between the fence and the blade is established, the auxiliary fence should be moved back behind the blade, where it can perform it’s function as a stop block but not run the risk of binding the piece as you perform the cross cut.

This image shows the correct position of the auxiliary fence/stop block relative to the blade while performing a cross cut.

Proceeding on, the image below shows the results of the test cut. The piece is sitting proud of the edge of the drawer front by a smidgen. To correct this the blade needs to be raised by a corresponding smidgen.

The correct fit after raising the blade is shown below.

Once the correct fit is established, the cross cut is made on each end of both drawer sides with the outside of each drawer side facing up.

All that needs to be done is to perform a dry assembly of the drawer, establish the size of the drawer bottom, cut it and then a dry assembly of the drawer with the bottom in place.

When gluing the drawer together, checking the diagonals match is an easy way to ensure that the box is square. I find the square check for tape measures really convenient for this.

September 13, 2010

Cutting a round log on the bandsaw

I love the smell of cedar in my workshop!

A friend gave me a couple of freshly cut cedar logs recently. The logs were fairly small diameter, about 5″ and the pith was offset quite a bit to one side. I cut the logs into 2′ lengths using my chainsaw, but did not want to split the logs using my chainsaw. I knew I would get cleaner, more accurate cuts with my bandsaw and would waste far less of the wood. I needed a safe way to cut the round logs on the bandsaw.

This is the simple jig I put together. Two pieces of scrap plywood with a couple of supporting triangular brackets.

The log is then screwed to the jig at the front and back of the jig. I made sure that the screws went into waste wood.

Set the bandsaw fence making sure that you will not be cutting through the screws! Because the log is screwed to the jig, it will prevent the log rotating while it is being cut.

Once a flat surface is established, cutting the log into spindle stock is fairly straightforward.

The end results. A bunch of 2″ to 2 1/2″ spindle stock with some beautiful color. Ready for the end grain to be sealed and then stacked and stickered to dry.

Author: Keith Larrett