Knife Display Case

I have received a commission to build a display case for a set of knives. The knives are a Harley Davidson collection and there are a total of 19 knives. They have been sitting in a closet for a number of years and the lady who commissioned me wants to give her husband a case to display them in for their anniversary.

After consultation we decided to build the case out of Tiger Maple and African Mahogany. The background will be maple with the frame of the case made from mahogany. I felt the Tiger Maple was a good choice, the light color would make the knives stand out. It also has some nice figure, but not enough to over power the focus of the display, namely the knives. The room the knives will be displayed in has some mahogany furniture, so using mahogany for the frame was a natural choice and it will contrast nicely with the maple.

After looking at a number of different ways to lay the knives out we decided on a grid of five columns and four rows. As there are nineteen knives the knife in the lower right corner will be displayed in the open position. Each cell is 4″ x 5″. The final dimension of the case will be around 16″ x 30″.

Open knife bottom right

I managed to pick up some nice boards from Chipmunk Hardwoods in Edgewater.

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Here are a couple more close up shots showing the knives. It is quite a collection!

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Now back to the shop to make some sawdust. This is going to be a fun project!

If the only tool you have is a hammer …

If the only tool you have is a hammer …

.. . then all your problems start to look like nails.

Yesterday evening I gave a demonstration at my woodturning club on turning a wooden mallet with an oval handle. I spent time over the weekend preparing for the demo. While I was turning a mallet in my shop, a friend of mine came round to visit. As he watched me we got to talking about hammers and he told me of a big carnival hammer he once had.

Boys will be boys, and not long after that we had this big log on the lathe and were busy making a monster size mallet 🙂

Mother of all mallets
Mother of all mallets

The head is 7 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ and the oval handle is 2′ long turned from poplar.

I took it to my demo and used it as an icebreaker at the beginning of the demo. It got a good laugh and helped to relax me as well as add some entertainment to the evening. Things came full circle at the end of the demo. I had turned the tenon on the handle ever so slightly oversize and was having difficulty pushing it into the hole of the mallet head. So I grabbed the “mother of all mallets” and with a sharp tap the handle slid snugly into the head, ending the demo nicely.

Turn a wooden mallet with an oval handle

A wooden mallet is very useful in the workshop and I’ve been meaning to make one for a while.   To make things a bit more interesting I decided to make one with an oval handle using off center turning.  An oval handle is also more comfortable to hold than a circular handle.  I made this from cherry, probably not the best of woods to use as it is not the hardest of hardwoods, but it is what I had on hand at the time.

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Continue reading “Turn a wooden mallet with an oval handle”

Making a Board Game on the lathe

In a recent post I mentioned I had made a Quarto Board Game for a friend of mine.  It is made from walnut and oak that he sent me.  It was a fun project and was done almost entirely on the lathe.  I used a table saw to cut the stave sections for the sides of the box, and a drill press for the inlays on the top.

This is an article on how I made the board game.  The techniques here could be adapted for a number of different games.  You can download a copy of the rules for Quarto here.

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Continue reading “Making a Board Game on the lathe”

Quarto Board Game

I have just finished making a board game called Quarto.  I was asked to make it for a good friend of mine.  It is made from walnut and oak that he sent me.  It was a fun project and was done almost entirely on the lathe.  I used a table saw to cut the stave sections for the sides of the box, and a drill press for the inlays on the top.

It was a fun project and was done almost entirely on the lathe.  I used a table saw to cut the stave sections for the sides of the box, and a drill press for the inlays on the top.  The techniques used to build it could be adapted to a number of different board games or projects.

I took pictures while I was building it and am busy working on an article detailing the construction steps.  Stay tuned, I should have it posted in the next couple of days!

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Click to enlarge

Cutting Board Design Software

imageA while ago I wrote about how I made an end grain cutting board.   One of the difficulties was trying to visualize what the final pattern was going to look like.

Well I was looking around on The Wood Whisperer blog and came across a link to a great piece of software that really helps with the design of both end grain and edge grain cutting boards.

The program, CBdesigner, was written by “jayman7” and you can download it here.

I will be making some more cutting boards as Christmas gets closer and this program will make it a lot easier to come up with some new designs.

Update on ebonizing wood

This is an update to my post on Ebonizing Wood from a couple days ago.  In that post I mentioned I was having trouble getting a shine on the aluminum without knocking the ebonzing off.  I found the solution.  Patience.  I was not giving the ebonzing solution time to dry.

I made another pen and demonstrated the ebonizing to my pen turning club.  I could not get to the pen for a couple of days after the meeting.  When I did, I just sanded it lightly with some non-abrasive steel wool.  The aluminum shone nicely and I still kept the deep color of the ebonizing.

Ebonized maple with aluminum inlay
Ebonized maple with aluminum inlay

Click to enlarge

Ebonizing

Ebonized Maple Pen
Ebonized Maple Pen

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In the June 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking there was an article by Brian Boggs that really caught my attention.  The article was on ebonizing wood.  As I read the article I imagined a pen made from ebonized maple inlaid with aluminum.  Why not just use ebony?  Well, a couple of reasons.  Firstly, though not a huge factor when dealing with pen blanks, maple is a lot cheaper.  Secondly, maple is a lot easier to work with.  Finally, ebony has a tendency to crack and split.

I laminated a maple pen blank with some aluminum, turned it and then followed the steps outlined by Brian on ebonizing.   The picture above shows the results.  Read on to see what is involved and my thoughts.

Continue reading “Ebonizing”

Drilling for a handle on a drawer

I got this neat tip for marking out the holes on a drawer to drill for a handle from a recent issue of Fine Woodworking. In the course of my work I put a lot of hardware on cabinets. I have a jig for marking the doors and drawers. The typical distance between centers for pulls is 3″. My jig works well for these pulls but even though it is adjustable it does not work as well on some of the pulls where the distance between centers is greater than 3″.

Today I had to install pulls with centers of 5 1/8″. I tried out this method and it worked very well. Relatively quick and suprisingly accurate.

Assuming you are installing a pull with a distance between center holes of 3″. From each corner of the drawer mark in 3″. Then draw a series of diagonal parallel lines as shown in the image. Where they interesect will be at two points 3″ apart and centered on the drawer top to bottom and left to right. Pretty neat. I found that rather than measuring the 3″ from the corner of each drawer, it was quicker to cut a gauge block from a scrap piece of wood and use that to establish the marks from which to draw the lines.

Drilling a drawer

You can click on any of the images to see a larger version.

Closed end desk pen

Inspiration for this pen came from some of the work of Ed Davidson. You can see more of his work at http://yoyospin.com.

One of the fun things about turning a closed end pen is that it frees up more design considerations as you are not restricted by the hardware on the end of the pen.

This pen is made using the Navigator kit from Woodcraft. It is the same kit that is sold as the Baron/Sedona by Arizona Silhouette.

Closed End Desk Pen

You can click on any of the images to see a larger version.

I started with a piece of spalted pecan, approx. 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 7″. After mounting it between centers, I turned it round and then turned a tenon on one end that would fit in the step jaws of my chuck. I then measured 2 1/4″ from the end with the tenon, and parted the blank.

Closed End Desk Pen

Next I mounted the blank with the tenon in the step jaws of my chuck, and drilled a 15/32″ hole 1 13/16″ deep. I checked to see that the tube for the upper barrel would fit completely in the hole.

Closed End Desk Pen

Then I mounted the other piece in the step jaws and drilled two holes. The first hole was drilled to a depth of 2 7/8″ with a 11/32″ bit. Then I drilled a slightly larger hole, 25/64″, to a depth of 2 1/16″. I checked to see that the tube for the lower barrel fitted in the larger hole and sat flush with the face of the blank.
The reason for the step hole is two fold. Firstly the extra room created at the end of the hole by the smaller bit, allows space for the spring behind the rollerball cartridge. Secondly, a shoulder is created for the tube to rest on so that it does not go to deep into the blank while being glued in.

Closed End Desk Pen

Having drilled all the holes in the upper and lower barrels, rough up the brass tubes and glue them in.

In order to turn the pen you need an expansion mandrel of some type. It is relatively easy to make one. Well, lets just say some people might find it relatively easy to make one! I tried a couple of times with not much success. If you would like to try you can find instructions in this tutorial.

I ended up buying a closed end mandrel for the lower barrel from Arizona Silhouette. It looks similar to a concrete expansion bolt and operates under the same principle.

Closed End Desk Pen

Insert the mandrel in the upper barrel, tighten the bolt using a couple of wrenches and insert the mandrel in the step jaws. Take care not to over tighten the bolt, it is easy to crack the blank, especially if you are working with an acrylic blank.

Closed End Desk Pen

Closed End Desk Pen

Turn the blank down to approx. 5/8″ and then measure 3 1/4″ from the end and part the blank off at this point. Then turn the blank to the shape you want, sand and apply the finish. You will find that you need to support the blank with your fingers on the back side while turning to help reduce vibration. It also helps to take light cuts.

Closed End Desk Pen

The next step is to turn the upper barrel. Because the brass tube is a different size the mandrel will not work. You have two choices at this point. The first is to buy another mandrel sized for the upper barrel. This could get expensive, especially if you want to also make closed end pens from other kits as well.

Fortunately, for the frugal amongst us, there is another solution. I got this idea from Ben “DaVinci27” Brown.

Take a spare lower barrel tube and glue it in a blank. I would recommend using 5 minute epoxy as you want to make sure you fill all the voids between the tube and the inside of the blank. Mount the blank on the lathe between a 60 degree live center and a 60 degree dead center. Turn the blank down to a diameter that makes it a snug fit inside the tube from an upper barrel. Go slow and use calipers to check your progress. Then take that blank to your band saw and cut it in half along the length. Don’t cut along the whole length of the blank, just about half way.

Closed End Desk Pen

Insert that tube in the tube of your upper barrel, then insert the mandrel and tighten. The cut in the tube will allow it to expand as you tighten the mandrel and hold the blank snug on the mandrel.

Closed End Desk Pen

Turn the upper blank to the shape you want, sand and finish. Once again you will probably find it necessary to support the back of the blank with your fingers while turning. Light cuts also help.

Closed End Desk Pen

Here are a couple more shots of the finished pen.

Closed End Desk Pen

Closed End Desk Pen