A friend gave me a couple of freshly cut cedar logs recently. The logs were fairly small diameter, about 5″ and the pith was offset quite a bit to one side. I cut the logs into 2′ lengths using my chainsaw, but did not want to split the logs using my chainsaw. I knew I would get cleaner, more accurate cuts with my bandsaw and would waste far less of the wood. I needed a safe way to cut the round logs on the bandsaw.
This is the simple jig I put together. Two pieces of scrap plywood with a couple of supporting triangular brackets.
The log is then screwed to the jig at the front and back of the jig. I made sure that the screws went into waste wood.
Set the bandsaw fence making sure that you will not be cutting through the screws! Because the log is screwed to the jig, it will prevent the log rotating while it is being cut.
Once a flat surface is established, cutting the log into spindle stock is fairly straightforward.
The end results. A bunch of 2″ to 2 1/2″ spindle stock with some beautiful color. Ready for the end grain to be sealed and then stacked and stickered to dry.
I finished installation of the TV Area Built In that I have been working on. I installed the base cabinets about a week ago and then had to wait for the top shop to install the granite top before I could install the bookcase unit and crown molding. The built in looked very nice and most importantly my customer was happy with my work and the finished product. This is the same customer who I designed and installed a dining room built in for.
Some of my recent posts have been about the work that I did on this built in. You can read them at these links:
Installing concealed hinges can be a pretty simple process, even using a hand held drill, with the help of a jig. The Rockler Concealed Hinge JIG works really well at positioning the Forstner bit, as well as holding it square to the door frame surface and finally controlling the depth of the hole. Of course, if you have a drill press with a good fence and large enough table then that will work just as well.
The first step is to mark the center line of where the hinge will be positioned. Then position the jig using the alignment arrows and clamp it in place. Note: the clamp is on the underside, or show face of the door. You can’t see it in the following picture and I didn’t take a picture showing it. Sorry, my bad.
Set the stop collar on the bit guide so the bit drills to the correct depth. I like to drill a test hole in a scrap piece of wood and make sure the hole is deep enough to allow the hinge to fit in without bottoming out.
The bit guide is then positioned over the alignment plate. The wide circumference of the bit guide ensures that the bit is held square to the work surface, important when drilling with a large Forstner bit. As the bit guide fits over the alignment plate it also stops the bit from wandering.
After placing the hinge in the hole, check that the back of the hinge is parallel to the frame using a square.
A flat panel door can be defined as a door in which the panel has no bevel or hip raise. It can still be considered a five piece door, as it consists of two stiles, two frames and a panel. The stiles are the vertical members of the frame, while the rails are the horizontal members.
The first step is to mill the wood for the stiles and rails of the doors. I am building three doors for some base cabinets. All three doors are the same size and the cabinets will be painted white. I am using poplar for the frame of the door and 1/4″ plywood for the flat panel. The stiles and rails are 2 1/2″ wide, 3/4″ thick and I cut them an inch or so longer than what I needed. While I was preparing the wood I also took the time to make some scrap pieces the same width and thickness to be used for test cuts. You can also see my set up block in the picture. You can also see my raised panel router bit set. For this project I will only be using the two bits on the left, the monster raised panel bit will stay in the box.
Mount the bit for cutting the profile on one edge of the stile and rails. I use my set up block to adjust the height of the router bit, although I still plan on making some test cuts in scrap wood. The profile in both the stiles and rails will be cut with the face side (the outside of the door) down.
A close up shot of my set up block. I keep this in a drawer right next to my raised panel router bit set.
The fence is then moved so that it is flush with the bearing of the bit.
After routing a profile in a scrap piece of wood, I use the rail section of my set up block to see if the two surfaces meet flush on the top surface. I got lucky this time and the fit was perfect 🙂
I then routed the profile on one edge of all the stiles and rails. Remember the cuts are made with the show side down. For this project it was not that important as the doors will be painted, but if you are not painting the doors you will want to take care to chose the best side of each stile and rail and then to route it with that side down.
I then took the stiles to the table saw and used a cross cut sled cut them to length. To calculate this length I measure the height of the door opening and added 1 /4″. My crosscut sled was not quite wide enough to enable me to use its stop block, so I used a fence clamp and a block of wood as a stop block.
The next step was to calculate the length of the rails. I wanted the door to overlap the door opening by 5/8″ all round. The depth of the groove in the stiles was 3/8″. The width of the stiles was 2 1/2″. So the length of the stiles needed to be:
(Door opening width) + (2 times 5/8″) – (2 times 2 1/2″) + (2 times 3/8″)
To many years in school dealing with the metric system means that I suck at working with fractional inches, so I always reach for my handy ProjectCalc Plus at times like these!
The router bit for routing the sticks in the rails is mounted in the router table and set to height using the set up block. Again the fence is positioned so that it is flush with the bearing.
Remeber those scrap pieces of wood. Route the profile in the end of one of them. When making this cut it is important the the rail be kept flat on the table face down and that it remain at 90 degrees to the fence. It is also important that the cut be backed up to prevent tear out as you are routing end grain. There are a number of commercial rail coping jigs that will allow you to achieve this easily. I don’t have one, although every time I build some doors I promise to buy myself one. So what I normally end up doing is to cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood or mdf, making sure that one corner is a perfect 90 degrees. Then I use that sacrificial piece of plywood to hold the rail square to the fence and to back up the cut.
Satisified that the set up of the router bit was correct, I made the coping cut in all of the rails. Remember to make this cut with the face side of the rail down!!
Calculating the size of the panel is pretty simple. Measure the frame opening, then add for the 3/8″ groove all round and then subtract to allow for expansion. With a solid wood panel you would want to subtract at least 1/8″ all round. With the more stable plywood panel that I’m using I subtracted 1/16″ all round. The groove is 1/4″ wide so the undersize 1/4″ plywood fits pretty loose in the groove. However with a couple of coats of paint it should fit just right.
Test fitting the panel.
I like to paint the panel before gluing the door together. That way if there is any expansion of the frame then there won’t be any unfinished part of the panel exposed. This is probably more important with solid wood panels, but it is a good habit to get into.
When gluing the door together the panel is not glued into the groove. Glue is only applied to the coping cuts on the rails. The glue should be done on a flat surface so that the door will be flat and it should be checked for square. I really find the square check for tape measures useful when checking for square.
In closing, and before you head out to the shop to start making a set of doors, I invite you to review a previous post on router feed direction and bit rotation.
After drilling the shelf support pin holes, the next step was to prepare the cabinet shelving. As the cabinets are to be painted, I just use 3/4″ plywood for the shelves and apply iron on wood edging to the edges to conceal the raw edges.
I like to apply the edge banding to the sides of the shelf first, and then to the front and back of the shelf. It is a small touch, but it means the front edging is overlapping the side edging and so there is less chance of any joint being visible when viewing the installed shelving.
The first step is to secure the shelf in a vise. Then, using a pair of scissors cut a piece of edging about an inch longer than needed. I don’t have a dedicated iron for this job. Up till now I’ve managed to sneak my wife’s iron out to the workshop, I’m pretty sure she doesn’t read this blog either so I think I’m safe! I set the iron to the “cotton” setting. That would be the hotter setting, although I’m not much of an expert when it comes to irons. Slowly move the iron over the edging so that the adhesive melts and sticks the edging to the shelf. As you do this make sure the edging overlaps the shelf slightly on each side. The edging is 13/16″ wide so you should have about a sixteenth overlap on each side of standard 3/4″ plywood.
Using a veneer trimmer, square off the ends of the edging. This is a pretty expensive tool and for a long time I was reluctant to buy it and so used to use a utility knife for this part of the operation. I must admit that once I purchased the veneer trimmer I was pleased with how much cleaner the cuts were and how much quicker I was able to make the cuts.
The final step is to touch up the edges using some 220 grit sandpaper. I like to sand at a slight angle to put a small bevel on the edge.
I am busy working on a commission for a couple of base cabinets and a bookcase to be used as part of a TV display area. The cabinets require adjustable shelves which requires a quick and accurate way to drill/bore a series of holes on the inside walls of each cabinet, front and back. As each shelf sits on a pair of pins each side of the cabinet, the holes need to be level relative to each other for the shelf to be level. As with many things in woodworking, the best way to accomplish this consistency is with a jig.
A quick search on the internet for “drilling shelf pin holes” will result in many hits showing how to build and use a jig to drill the shelf pin holes using a hand held drill. There are even commercial jigs available. I prefer to use a plunge router to bore the holes. The work proceeds faster and the high speed of the router produces a cleaner hole. Also, as the weight of the router is supported by the workpiece, I find it less tiring than holding a drill. Often when drilling holes for shelf support pins you have to do a couple of hundred at a time, so these factors are important.
The jig that I use is made from a scrap piece of pine which I re-sawed and planed to 3/8″ thick. 1/2″ thick MDF or plywood would work just as well. The pine was ripped to 3 1/2″ wide and is just over 60″ long. A line was drawn down the middle of the board and then a series of marks at 2 1/2″ intervals were marked out along that line. The marks start and end approximately 9″ from each end of the board. A 3/8″ hole is then drilled at each mark and a slight counter sink at each hole. The counter sink is just to make it easier to locate the router collar in the hole. Take care to make sure the counter sink is not deeper than the depth of your collar, the collar needs to be supported by the walls of the 3/8″ hole.
Mark one end of the board “top” and the other end of the board “bottom”. This will make it easy to ensure that you are always referencing from the bottom of the cabinet wall. Then line the side of the jig up with the side of the cabinet wall and clamp it in place.
I use 1/4″ shelf pin supports, so I mount a 1/4″ spiral upcut bit in my router along with a 3/8″ collar. Set the plunge depth of the router so that the bit extends 3/8″ past the jig. Then it is just a matter of positioning the router collar in a hole in the jig and plunge routing a hole, repeat as necessary. I find the slight counter sink at each hole makes positioning the router quick and easy.
Once the line of holes at the front of the cabinet are drill, slide the jig to the back of the cabinet, making sure you are still referencing the bottom of the jig from the bottom of the cabinet, clamp it in place and bore the line of holes for the back of the cabinet.
I recently purchased a set of Rockler’s Bench Cookies. I’ve been reading about them all over the internet and no doubt I’m probably the last woodworker in the world to have purchased a set 🙂 I was excited to try them out and thought I would combine it with an article about router feed direction and bit rotation.
I use a router a lot in my workshop, both hand held and table router. However, I can remember when I got my first router and the learning curve I went through figuring out which direction to move the router when routing by hand or the workpiece when routing on the table router. Hopefully I can help others out and make that learning curve not quite as exciting!
Essentially the workpiece always needs to be feed into the bit, so the first thing you need to know is which way is the bit rotating. Lets deal with the table mounter router first. Hold out your right hand in a classic “thumbs up” gesture. Imagine your hand is the router and your right thumb is the router bit. The direction of the router bit follows the curve of your fingers. In this case, it is counter clockwise. You can see this clearly in the picture below.
Now rotate your right hand into a “thumbs down” gesture. Again imagine your hand is the router and your right thumb is the router bit. The direction of the router bit is still indicated by the curve of your fingers, in this case it is clockwise. You can see this in the picture below.
This “right-hand thumb rule” applies to almost anything that spins, faucets, right hand thread screws etc.
So, moving back to the router table, you can see that in order to feed the workpiece into the router bit, you need to feed from right to left, assuming you are standing facing the fence. By feeding from right to left you are feeding the workpiece against the direction of rotation of the bit. The natural reaction as the workpiece contacts with the bit is to push the workpiece back towards you. By controlling the workpiece, by hand and through the use of featherboards, you prevent this from happening.
Feeding from left to right, the rotation of the bit would grab the workpiece and pull it forcefully from right to left. This can happen in the blink of an eye and the danger is, aside from ruining the workpiece, that you don’t release it and your fingers are pulled towards the router bit.
For the same reason the fence always needs to be positioned so that side of the router bit that is furthest away from the fence is doing the cutting. To illustrate, suppose you need to route a groove or dado that is 1″ wide, but the largest bit you have is a 3/4″ straight bit. Obviously the groove will have to be cut with two passes. The first pass will form a 3/4″ groove and then the fence can be moved 1/4″ in order to make the groove a full 1″ wide after the second pass. No problem.
However, it is very important that the fence be moved in the right direction before the second pass. Moving the fence closer to the router bit would mean that the side of the router bit that is closest to the fence is doing the cutting. Remember the way the bit is rotating? This would cause the bit to pull the workpiece away from you forcefully. The following picture shows what not to do!!
The correct method is to move the fence away from the router bit so that the 1/4″ section of the groove you are removing with the second pass is on the side of the router bit farthest from the fence. The following picture show the correct position of the fence relative to the router bit. By setting up for the second pass this way you are once again feeding the workpiece into the direction of rotation of the bit.
Cuts like this need to be planned very carefully to ensure that the correct side of the router bit is doing the cutting.
Moving back to the hand held router, there are two different scenarios which determine feed direction. Imagine a circular picture frame that you need to profile both the external and internal edges of. Which direction to you rout?
Hold your right hand out again with fingers closed except your thumb and index finger. Imagine your hand is the router. If your right thumb is pointing to the workpiece then your index finger is showing the direction of travel of the router. Take a look at the picture below.
You can see that when routing the outside edge of the picture frame, you need to move the router in a counter clockwise direction. When routing the inside edge of the picture frame, you need to move the router in a clockwise direction.
I have found these two “right hand” memory aids very useful in determining router bit rotation and router feed direction. I hope you do to.
I’ll end the article with a short video clip showing the Rockler Bench Cookies supporting a workpiece I was making some test cuts on. I found they held the workpiece securely and it was nice to have it raised above the table. I did find that I needed to lightly support the workpiece with my inboard hand to prevent it from tipping slightly. I’m sure that if the workpiece was wider or if I had been using an offset base on the router, this would not have been necessary. I can also see the Bench Cookies will be useful for other applications, sanding and finishing are two that come to mind.
In full disclosure, the links are affiliate links. If you purchase anything from Rockler via the links, Rockler will send me buckets of money and I’ll be able to quit my day job and play in my workshop every day. Not necessarily a bad thing 🙂
I finally completed the knife display case and delivered it to the lady who commissioned it. She was very happy with the case, which is the most important thing. It is a wedding anniversary gift for her husband. His collection of Harley knives has been sitting in the closet for many years, so now he will have them out on display.
The case is made from Tiger Maple and African Mahogany and is approx. 16″ x 32″. The joints are inlaid half blind dovetails. The wooden hinges are made from tiger maple. The pockets for the knives were routed with the Daisy Pin Router and then were flocked. A french cleat on the back of the display will allow it to be hung on the wall. It is pretty heavy and I thought a french cleat would be the safest means of hanging it.
Choosing and installing hinges has always been a frustrating part of the process of making a hinged box. The array of hinges available is staggering, yet often it is difficult to find just the right hinge for a particular project. I’m also guilty of not planning far enough ahead, and so when it comes time to install a hinge my choices are severally restricted because of the thickness of the wood I’ve used or the design of a particular box. Lastly I’m nervous about mortising for a hinge, messing it up and destroying all the work I’ve put into building a box.
While trying to decide on a hinge for the knife display case, all these factors came into play. In addition I had a lot of details that I did not want detracted from by a shiny metal hinge. I did some research and thought I would try make some wooden hinges. To my surprise I found them easy to make and install. They also looked really nice, and I thought they would add to the overall look of the case.
I milled some maple to half inch thick and 1 3/4″ wide. The width was determined by the finger joint layout, I was using a 1/4″ straight bit in the finger joint template on my Leigh D4R jig. The joints could just as easily made using a jig on a table saw or router table.
Using a 1/4″ round over bit in my router table I rounded over the ends of each piece.
Using the finger joint jig, I routed pins in both ends of one board, and sockets in both ends of the other board.
Each board was then cross cut in half and a test fit revealed a nice snug finger joint. I then pulled the joints apart by about 1/16″ and clamped the pairs together against my drill press fence. The plywood in the image ensured a clean exit hole. It is important that the drill be perpendicular to the table. The entry and exit holes need to be in perfect alignment on each side or the hinge will not open nicely.
After drilling, and before removing from the clamps, I inserted a 1/8″ brass rod cut to length into the hole, and two wooden hinges were complete, ready to be cut to fit and installed.
I planned to make inlaid half blind dovetail joints for the frame of the knife display case. The frame is made from African Mahogany and the inlays are tiger maple. This article will show how I made the joints. For more information on the Leigh Jig please visit their website. The article which I followed is one of Leigh’s technical bulletins. Their manuals are very well written and illustrated. Another excellent source for information on the Leigh Jigs is Al Navas’s blog, Sandal Woods.
When making half blind dovetails with the Leigh Jig it is critical to understand the following:
Bit selection is based on the thickness of the pin board.
The bit selected will only produce one specific cutting depth. If you have the bit set to low the joint will be too tight, if you have the bit set to high the joint will be too loose. Only one depth of cut will make a perfect joint.
The pins and the tails are both routed with the same bit.
The scale setting determines how much the pins protrude from the tails. You only want the pins to protrude by about 1/64″ to make for easy clean up of the joint.
The process for making inlaid half blind dovetail joints consists of first making a set of end on end half blind dovetails with two pieces of contrasting woods. Then making a regular half blind dovetail joint where the tails are smaller.
The first step was to prepare the lumber to the right dimensions. While I was doing this I also prepared a couple of test pieces to use in setting up the router and jig and to practice the joint on. I marked all the pieces with white chalk, indicating the sides of the frames (the tail boards) and the front/back of the frame (the pin boards). I also marked the show side or outside of the frame.
As well as the four sides of the frame, I also needed to prepare a spacer board, the inlay board and two shims. The spacer board is used on the Leigh Jig to rest the guide fingers on. The shims are used to help set the fingers of the jig when doing the inlay. The inlay board and shims needed to be milled to a particular thickness. The pin and tail boards are 5/8″ thick and I wanted an inlay of 1/16″ thickness. I was using the 120-8 cutter (router bit) which has a 14 degree angle and a cutting depth of 7/16″.
The inlay board thickness needed to be equal to the cutting depth + inlay thickness. i.e 7/16″ + 1/16″ = 1/2″
The shim thickness was determined by the following formula in the Leigh Bulletin: inlay thickness x 1.28 i.e 1/16″ x 1.28 = 0.08″ (The angle of the cutter bit determines the factor by which you multiply the inlay thickness by in order to determine the shim thickness.
Having prepared all the lumber the next step was to layout the fingers on the jig. As my board was only 2 1/2″ wide there were not going to be many dovetails! It is important to make sure that you have room for at least two shim thickness between each pair of fingers. The guide fingers need to be moved by this amount later in the proceedings.
The assembly is then rotated into the half blind pins mode with the scale set to the thickness of the tail board. The pin board is placed horizontally in the jig and moved forward so that it touches the tail board that is vertical in the jig. You can see in the image below that the tail board is set low enough that the router bit will not touch it!
The pin board is then routed. This is not the normal procedure when making half blind dovetails using the Leigh Jig. Normally the tail board is routed first. For inlaid half blind dovetails the pin board needs to be routed first so that an inlay can be glued into the pins.
The assembly is now rotated to the half blind tails mode and the inlay board is placed horizontally in the jig. It is moved forward so that it is flush with the front face of the tail board mounted vertically in the jig. The inlay board is routed out. When routing the inlay board you need to make sure you route back far enough so that there is enough of a tail to fill the tail sockets.
After making a test fit I took the inlay board to my cross cut sled on my table saw and cut off a couple inches of the end which had been routed. I then glued the inlay into the pin board. As you can see in the image below I did this on both ends of the pin board.
Once the glue had cured, I took the piece to my cross cut sled again and cut the inlay board flush with the end of the pin board.
Now comes the magic trick. With the jig assembly still in the half blind tails mode the guide fingers need to be moved so that the next set of pins and tails that are cut are slightly smaller than the first set. The Leigh Bulletin does a great job of explaining how the guide fingers need to be moved, I’ll do my best here.
The right hand fingers are loosened and moved to the right by one shim thickness. They are then tightened. The left hand fingers are then loosened, slid to the left so that two shims fit between the left and right fingers, then the left finger is tightened. The half pin guides need only to be moved inwards by one shim thickness. The easy way to do this is to move the “spare” fingers (the ones to the far left and right of the joint that are just used to rest the router on) flush to the half pin guides. Then the half pin guides are loosened, slid in by the the thickness of one shim and tightened. The “spare” guides are then moved back out. It sounds pretty complicated, but it is actually fairly simple to do.
Having moved the guides, and with the assembly still in the half blind tails mode, the tail board is routed out. As you can see in the image below the tail board is mounted vertical in the jig and raised so that it touches the underside of the guide fingers.
We’re nearly there!! The assembly is rotated to the half blind pins mode. The pin board with the inlay is mounted horizontally in the jig and moved forward so that it touches the tail board that is vertical in the jig. Again you can see in the image below that the tail board is set low enough that the router bit will not touch it!
The pin board is routed out and finally the inlaid joint is revealed! I don’t need to tell you how exciting a moment this is!
The results of all those steps, an inlaid half blind dovetail joint.
